From Don Croft's
Gifting Compendium:
1.
Fold a piece of typing paper twice and then open it into a cone shape.
Tape the overlap and underlap with masking tape to help it hold its
shape.
2. After you've shaped it into a cone, put the opened cone upside down in a paper cup.
3. We cut a 26" length of 18 gauge copper wire and form it into a
clockwise cone spiral (it resembles the tip of a big screw) so that it
fits loosely inside the paper cone. You can make it pretty rough or get
one of Christy Murphy's nifty conespiral bending forms from Quebec Orgone.
Orgone simply loves to run along and thru curved, orderly pathways.
26� works well for us but there's no specific reason for the length
except [Don's psychic wife] Carol likes it. We haven't seen any evidence
that 'lost cubits' or other specific measures are relevant to this
work, by the way.
4.
Put a big pinch of metal particles into the pointy end of the cone,
right on top of the little end of the copper spiral. I like to use BBs
(small, copper or zinc-coated ball bearings that American kids shoot
from air rifles) for the tips of my HHgs but they're very heavy and
expensive if you're making a lot of HHgs and TBs. The spherical form
and also the plated zinc and copper over steel provide some pretty
dynamic energy qualities but any meta waste from a machine shop is more
than sufficient.
5. Shove a fat xtal (my abbreviation for 'crystal'), point down, into
the metal so that it's standing up, then put a little more metal in to
hold it in place. I use very cheap, funky-looking crystals for this
which have one distinct end. Any form of quartz works fine, by the way,
for any of the items mentioned in this document - amethyst, rose quartz,
citrine, etc. Save the nice ones for personal devices, though, if you
feel inclined to experiment with the dynamics of gemstones. For an HHg
I'll use anything that's at least an inch long and a half inch thick
with one distinct point. Gladys puts plenty of these in her 'per pound'
orders, along with the towerbuster crystals.
6. Now pour enough catalyzed resin in to saturate the metal. If your
metal particles are too fine for the resin to pour thru before it
hardens, mix the stuff before you put it in the inverted cone - don't
learn this the hard way, as I did (and still do ;-)! The level of resin
and the level of metal after it's saturated needs to be about the same,
otherwise you're wasting some resin. It's better to have metal
sticking out of the bottom of the finished product than to have less
metal than resin. It's the metal that does the work, apparently; the
resin is the matrix.
7. We add a bit of garnets, hematite and crushed pyrite to the
orgonite, sometimes; it's an optional process for this device but this
is a tried and true combination of minerals for enhancing and grounding
the effects of the material. If you've got a talent for this process,
add whatever you like. If you don't have a feel for it, be aware that
the improper combination of elements will reduce the effectiveness of
your devices. There are books that can teach you the properties of
gemstones and minerals and these properties are greatly enhanced by
orgonite. My favorite, because it's based on a combination of
intuitition and empirical testing, is Michael Gienger's CRYSTAL POWER,
CRYSTAL HEALING. I don't personally care much for channeled literature
because there's no science behind it. Science and spirituality are
inseparable, in my opinion. Leaving one or the other out of our
personal life leaves us either materialistic or superstitious but when
they're in harmony, we're empowered and intelligent.
8. Fill to the brim, in stages if necessary, with orgonite and when it's
hard, it's finished. You can leave the paper on or peel it off. I
leave the paper on and sometimes paint them green and brown with
spraypaint if I won't be burying it and you'd be surprised how hard it
is to see a camouflaged HHg once it's been put in a bush or other hiding
place.
Notice that I'm not putting any additional crystals in the mix as we'd
advised in earlier instructions. I simply found that using one bulky
xtal in the point makes the other ones extraneous. I think the coil is
important in this case. Save the fancy efforts for your personal
devices.
